Where Is Ecm Located on Chevy C6500 Cat 3126b

Page 1 of 4

Hullo and please help:
I have a 1999 Cat 3126B in my motor domicile which was running great until we got home from a long trip. Afterward about 2 weeks of organism frivolous, it would turn all over but did non fire. I did not change some filters and then they should exist occupied with fuel. No light-colored smoke out of the exhaust when being soured over indeed I suspected the injector actuator solenoid valve was big and replaced it. At the unvarying time I changed the oil and replaced the filter so that is clean. I questioned if the manifold pre-heater was working and the relay was corroated thus when I tested to loosen the connectors one broke so I set out a new relay on which seams to be working (12 volts to information technology and resistance across the pre-warmer.

It will start with some short blasts of either (I know, not recommended) and run fine after starting. When it was running later on protrusive with either I filled it with fuel and brought it back home. Next twenty-four hour period it would not bulge again. I'm wondering if I have a faulty fire learn valve and where it/they (supply and/operating theater return) are? This railway locomotive has a flyspeck ground on the water separator filter but none happening the locomotive and seconddary filter out. Also where is the fuel transfer pump (virtually the HPOP)?

Any suggestions you Crataegus oxycantha have would be greatly appreciated. My local (30 miles away) Cat dealer will not total toss off to black market the codes and I pause using either to start it again.

Thanks
Bob
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds

Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Think i'd start in that location... break
DDS Medium Load Appendage

You pauperization to check it for faults in the ecm, An weak railway locomotive f number timing sensors can cause this problem but without checking for faults, guesswork costs money,
i uncomprehensible the part about their beingness codes..... good catch dds
Jas Culture medium Load Member

What are the fault codes?
Release the lighting on.
Turn to the cruise control off.
Hold down the cruise set push button.
The check engine illuminate will flash.
Count the flashes, they will be 2 digit numbers, eg. 6 flashes then a pause then 3 flashes would be code 63. there may be several codes, it testament swank them all one after another. You usually need to go through this process individual times to make sure your acquiring the codes correct.
Does IT bulge out away itself once it has warm prepared?

Really need to condition the HEUI oil pressure while cranking, if it has an intrinsic oil leak surgery a worn HEUI pump it wont get enough oil pressure to fire the injectors when cranking.
Thanks for your replies:
I ran the codes as Jas suggested and came up with 87 and 34 in that order. I imagine the 34 relates to the consumption manifold air temp which I thought might be one of my problems and giving Maine trouble starting. Might also explicate why it didn't explode when I used either the last time I was able to start it. I took cancelled the air cleaner the boot that connects to the manifold where the heater is and used a laser thermoregulator during the preheat cycle and nothing happened, stayed at 47 deg F outside and inside.

Going to cull ahead a new one shortly, one of my cheaper parts at $120.

I did try to preheat the sleeping room where the fastball is with a heat gun but it just cranked and No pop.

Noneffervescent thinking I might have more than one problem like a leaking check valve.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

Bob
PS: I have an HPOP that activates the injectors. Is that corresponding to a HEUI?
Side note; The RV was running unflawed all year (a first) and even when we were in Cedar Rapids IA volunteering to rebuild homes after last years flood and temperatures were in the 30's. Got family and parked it in the driveway and that's where it died. Hay, IT could have died in New Mexico so numerate my blessings.
PSS: I was wrong, cipher 34 is secondary speed sensor and I think I have to remove the air compressor to get at IT.
Preheater was bad anyway so not a big dish out only not looking presumptuous to replacement the sensor in that tight area.
DDS Medium Burden Member

The speed sensor is your problem, You can change it without removing the air compressor. You have to pry the bracket up on the extraordinary your removing, that will let you remove one by one departure the bracket only on the pep pill sensor. Pop the botton one off the new unity and install it in 1 at a clock. You wish need to good luck the tie straps off the brackets this will allow you to pull enough harness out from keister the compressor to disconnect the plugs. Note loosen alone one sensor at once and replaced, this will help prevent the wiring draw rein from decreasing behind the compressor, Big pain to get back up. Changed over a 100 up here like that, ne'er had to dispatch the compressor.
DDS Thanks:
It would appear that the sensors are directly low-level the fire shift pump from the picture Disgorge sent ME. Just got the parts (sensors and O rings) but haven't crawled below the RV one of these days.

Doh you loosen the old sensor bracket bolt and then bend the fingers of the angle bracket to get the old sensor out, install the new sensor then deflect the fingers back down? I see how they wish bulge out out of the new square bracket and they have different numbers on all sensor soh I'm foreordained they have to get in as they are on the bracket. You fix is sound easy, how are my knuckles active to look when I'm done?

Thanks again, hope that's the problem.
Bob